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In 1939, when I was a high
school junior, I managed to acquire a job as a “guide” at the
Reptile Gardens in the Black Hills of South Dakota, a business started
in 1938 by a man who spent his lifetime as a successful tourist
entrepreneur.
Guides were trained in the rudiments of herpetology and got a
crash course in human nature. Our job was directing visitors around the
snake pits, providing a lecture, and answering all questions.
The pits were simply 10-foot square frame constructions dug into
the ground, with a roof and an open side with a rail, designed only for
summertime use. Visitors could lean on the rail as their guide jumped
into the pit to talk about the creepy crawly creatures in that location.
We all developed our own special techniques of becoming masters of the
situation and working for the best tips possible at the end of the tour.
Any given group of travelers could be counted on to repeat the same
questions at each of the stops where we described the residents of that
enclosure. We soon were aware of the importance of eye contact when we
talked, to make visitors feel we were talking to them personally.
One of the display pits was devoted to Crotalus Adamanteus, the
Eastern Diamond Back rattlesnake native to Florida. These were large
snakes, about the size of a man’s wrist, and four to five feet in
length. Drop for drop, their venom was not much more deadly than other
snakes, but they had an enormous venom sac. This was responsible for
their deadlier position in the hierarchy of rattlesnake bites—they
just injected more poison into the system of whatever creature they bit.
The big diamond backs in our pit had slowly been dying because we
almost totally lacked the ability to provide even a reasonably normal
environment for them. By the middle of August, we all knew that this one
pit had nothing but large dead snakes coiled on the floor of the area.
There was a standard explanation for our visitors, “These deadly
reptiles are accustomed to our walking among them, so they just don’t
rattle or strike because our body odors and movements have not harmed
them.” We guides, of
course, did not even hint they were all dead.
One August day I had to leave the Gardens because of an illness
in the family. Returning late on that very busy afternoon, I was sent
down to the rattler pit to relieve a guide who had almost lost his voice
from overuse.
What I didn’t know was that a new shipment of snakes had
arrived via Railway Express just moments after I left the premises that
morning. The dead snakes had been removed and the travel-angry batch of
fresh Diamond Back replacements had about six hours to calm down by the
time I rushed in as a fresh-voiced guide.
One smartly dressed, diminutive lady, who wore an attractive felt
hat tipped jauntily over one eye, began asking knowledgeable questions,
such as, “Are these Eastern or Western Diamond Backs?” I told her
these were Easterns from Florida, as the Westerns came mostly from
Texas. As she asked how to differentiate between the two types of
reptiles, I noted she had a beautiful complexion, or one heck of a
make-up artist with her. Her dark wavy hair was meticulously arranged,
about level with her jaw line. By this time, I was impressed with her
obvious intelligence; her questions were noticeably better informed than
those coming from the usual run of tourists. She was certainly someone
acquainted with wildlife and wanted to learn more than the average
person who had spent a dollar to see the snakes. I
determined to converse at greater length with her after the tour was
over.
Standing in the center of the Diamond Back pit, I wasn’t in the
least concerned about a possible lethal snakebite. The creatures were
all dead the last time I’d seen them, and my casual stance within
inches of the venomous snakes was deliberate, designed to impress the
spectators with my poise.
I started the usual spiel about why the snakes didn’t strike,
and how we all wore boots, just in case. A fleeting thought about my own
legs, covered only with trousers at the time, didn’t upset me. My
Reptile Gardens shirt had the logo across the back and my name, a large
“Art” above the left front pocket.
What happened next, in a matter of seconds, is still engraved in
my memory more than 60 years later. A small boy, out of pure boredom,
kicked the wooden side of the containment area. All 18 of the snakes, in
a nervous reaction to the thump, began vibrating their tails and the
rattles filled the air with that unmistakable sound that has never been
artificially duplicated. The strike at my left leg left the fangs of the
nearest snake caught in the cuff of my trousers. As the rattler turned
its head back and forth, trying to extricate itself from the cloth
entanglement, a calm, decisive, highly-trained voice instructed, “Art
– don’t move – be silent – hold yourself perfectly still.”
Although it seemed like an eternity, it couldn’t have been over
two minutes before everything settled back to normal and the snakes
again appeared to be totally lethargic. The same voice said, “Move
slowly, Art, and climb out of there.”
Following the woman’s instructions I was able to extricate
myself from the perilous situation and what could have been a lethal
snakebite.
The remainder of the tour lasted just a few more minutes. Heading
toward the exit, I stopped my rescuer and thanked her from the bottom of
my heart. Now it was my turn to ask questions.
I learned the woman’s name was Osa Johnson. With her husband
Martin, she was responsible for 15 motion pictures about wildlife and
the uncivilized tribes of the South Seas, Borneo and Africa. She was a
professional lecturer, a licensed pilot, movie producer, photographer
and, along with Irene Castle, was one of the first women in America to
have a permanent hair wave. Obviously the blazing jungle sun hadn’t
turned her skin to leather and she had also been listed as one of the 12
best-dressed women in the country.
Osa Johnson’s often quoted reason for the many trips to
primitive countries was, “The dangers of the jungle are trivial
compared with the dangers of civilization. Nature made the one, man the
other.” Her husband Martin died in an airplane crash two
years before our meeting. Osa Johnson was seriously injured in the same
crash and was touring the country while regaining her strength. |
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Deadwood Magazine ©2001